FW18 NOT YOUR DOLL

Jyuri Lee's 2018 Collection 'Not Your Doll-ter' deals with her parents' obsessive, yet controlling love with her. She wanted to translate her obsession: half a desire to create, half a striving for freedom and the unknown, into materiality; into tangible and expressive human architecture. It was to be a leap from the past — she took her inspiration from her collection of marionettes, photographs of equestrian events and racing tack and explored the human interface with harnesses, halters — so much power under control. The theme is a silhouette that is full of potential, free, flowing, but held back. She says, "I used to feel I was standing against the wind." To create this 'held-back' or 'standing against the wind' motif, she chose fabrics with care: waxed cotton, Schoeller sporting textiles, Mikado silk and Silk Gazaar. These were supported and enhanced via inner structures of wire and elastic bands. The goal was to support the silhouette with a rigid structure that still permitted fluidity, the goal was to create an unexpected, yet reliable underpinning. Every silhouette must convey a story.